Get ‘Crackin’ in Waikiki
Oahu became flooded with seafood boil restaurants beginning in the summer of 2012. New to Waikiki this summer is Crackin' Kitchen.
Its menu is highlighted by a $70 Ultimate Combo comprising three bags of snow and king crab legs, shrimp, mussels, clams, potatoes, corn cob slices and Spam, prepared in the restaurant's signature red, white and black sauces created by Takeshi Omae, who was executive chef at Morimoto XEX in Tokyo when the restaurant received its Michelin star in 2008 and 2009.
Hmm, since when does a satisfying crab require the skills of a Michelin chef?
For each sauce, you can pick spice levels of mild, hot or XXX. The “hot” level was enough to create the sort of burn painful when paired with warm food.
The white sauce is a sort of throwaway, with a basic sauce of Maui onions, ginger and lemon butter, for those who like plainer, jolt-free meals. The flavor hints more at Chinese than Cajun cuisine.
So diners are lured into a friendly battle over red sauce or black sauce, with staffers gushing over the black sauce that blends coffee, black pepper and Hawaiian cacao. Every once in a bite, you’ll come across a nib of chocolate.
Does it actually enhance the crab? I’m not so sure, but it tastes great with the pieces of potato and slices of corn. By leftover time, the complexity had grown on me, but frankly, I'd rather taste fresh crab and wish there was a plain boil with sauces served on the side to give diners more control.
Crackin' Kitchen is at 364 Seaside Ave. Call (808) 922-5552 or visit www.crackinkitchen.com.
Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at firstname.lastname@example.org and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.