Ramen Lab popped into Lucky Belly
By Nadine Kam
Nadine Kam photos
Old School Tokyo ramen was one of three ramen options offered at the Sun Noodle Ramen Lab pop-up at Lucky Belly Nov. 25. The chicken and shoyu broth was topped with ajitama egg, charcoal-grilled char siu, wafu spinach and bamboo shoots. The flat, medium thick noodles are most popular with ramen lovers in Japan today.
Most people still think of Sun Noodle as the little company in Kalihi that supplies our ramen houses and makes pi for our won ton soups.
But the company, founded in 1981 by Hidehito Uki, is a major player on the national food scene due to the growing popularity of ramen. After shipping noodles to California and Washington for years, the company opened a Los Angeles factory in 2004, started shipping noodles to New York a year later, and now has established Ramen Lab in New Jersey, where executive chef Shigetoshi Nakamura helps would-be ramenya owners develop original menus and concepts for their restaurants.
They've also helped established restaurateurs like Marcus Samuelsson, who wanted a recipe incorporating Ethiopian teff flour.
With much of the country yet to discover the joys of ramen, it's definitely a business with an upward trajectory.
Nakamura was in the house at Chinatown's Lucky Belly on Nov. 25 for a one-night Ramen Lab popup. The particulars: No reservations, first come, first served from 5 p.m. while supplies lasted, and there were at least 60 people lined up from the corner of Hotel and Smith streets to Little Village, after the first in line, from about 4 p.m., were admitted.
I arrived at about 5, but was lucky enough to be part of a group that had been second in line at about 4:15 p.m.
The chef presented three types of ramen, representing local, Japan and New York styles. With the enthusiasm generated by this popup, more events may be coming our way. It's only fair, given that Hawaii has offered a warm, supportive environment for Sun Noodle to grow up.
New York Heritage ramen is Italian inspired, in a tomato broth topped with basil, crimini mushrooms, Italian sausage and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The chewy, curly temomi noodles are best sellers in Hawaii and New York. You need to be in the mood for Italian to enjoy it. I ordered this because I like different, but what I really craved was the Tokyo combination of pork and egg.
Tonkotsu black ramen with thin, straight hakata noodles, pork broth topped with sumibiyaki charcoal-grilled char siu, kikurage (cloud ear mushroom), scallions and drizzled with black garlic essence. These noodles should be eaten quickly. Alas for the food blogger, time required for photography takes time from enjoying the ramen at its optimal.
Sun Noodle Ramen Lab executive chef Shige Nakamura and his wife Maiko.
Hisae Uki, daughter of Sun Noodle founder Hidehito Uki, wears a Sun T-shirt touting outposts in Honolulu, Los Angeles and New York.



Nadine Kam photos
Tabletops are dressed with angels, firs and other symbols of Christmas.
At Kensei's dining table, another holiday tree is set on an equally graphic, contrasting stone chessboard.
We could follow along the courses with a printed menu as guide, listing both food selections and dinnerware.
Amuse bouche of escargot-style stuffed mushroom served in a delicate English etched crystal bowl over Royal Copenhagen mini saucer.
Pumpkin mousse with caviar and pesto oil served in a Royal KPM bowl and cameo plate.
Kensei in his kitchen with his "Creation Sushi."
Plated on an etched crystal plate and Meissen dinner plate were sushi rice with ahi, hamachi and unagi over pumpkin bread.
Kensei-style "Furofuki Daikon" with miso and red ginger, presented in a Herend-covered compote and dinner plate. The compote was designed to be used as a butter dish.
A Czechoslovakian art glass compote and hand-painted Royal Worcester plate offered the royal blue backdrop for a crunchy salad of Japanese cucumber and roast beef.
There was texture and a gold-beaded quality to the paint on the beautiful Royal Worchester plate.
An intermezzo of homemade blackberry, blueberry and yuzu sorbe was served in a Baccarat crystal stemmed glass over a white- and strawberry-hued Meissen plate.
Japanese-style bouillabaisse of hamachi, delicate fishcake, shrimp and enoki, was served in 130-year-old Wajima covered lacquer compote and lacquer plate over a hand-painted Noritake plate.
The Noritake plate also had textured gold paint.
Dessert was Kensei's secret rum liqueur cake (available at Longs Drugs), served with mint ice cream and sliced kiwi in a Baccarat crystal compote over a Lamberton plate graced with circles of shamrocks.
Nadine Kam photos
Rae Huo photo
Photo courtesy Halekulani Corp.
Heaven is a platter of NOBU's hamachi and jalapeño.
Parc staffers offered guests quarters for tossing into Iona Dance Theatre's Living Fountain, bestowing 25 more years (at least) of good wishes upon the hotel.
Mini ceviche tacos.
Nobu's sushi platter.
Skewered Peruvian beef antikucho, marinated in cumin, peppers, garlic and vinegar.
Black cod in butter lettuce cups from Rae Huo and Zakka's
Offering guests their thanks for 25 years of patronage were COO Peter Shaindlin, left, and general manager Ulrich Krauer, both of sister Halekulani Hotel.
Also welcoming guests were longtime Parc employees general manager Julie Arigo, employed for 19 years, and 25-year veteran sales director Mike Kikuyama.
Guests went home with a Parc cupcake, which didn't last long after this photo was taken.
Nadine Kam photos
So Gong Dong owners Steve and Sarah Lee.
I love chop chae!
Stir-fried rice cake.
I was back for seconds of seafood and green onion pancakes.
Nadine Kam photos
I just got back from the snow in Connecticut, where all the fixings of a heavy Thanksgiving meal and the colors on the plate really make sense.
The spirit of the holidays reflected in one of Whole Foods reusable bags. It looks like burlap, but that's just the print on the usual recycled material.
Holiday Spiced Plum tea from the Republic of Tea.
Don't forget to bring a healthy aspect to the table. Jon Fendrick dishes a tasty spinach and mac nut salad splashed with Cindy's Kitchen Pomegranate Vinaigrette.
The 12-pound turkey was prepared with an easy recipe: Salt and pepper the outside of the bird, sprinkle rosemary in the cavity. Place whole bird in a 1/4th inch of water in a metal pan. Roast at 375 degrees F. for 3-1/2 hours. Done and deliciously moist!
A sampling of sides: mashed potatoes ($7.99 per pound), gravy ($5.99/pound), traditional stuffing ($6.99/pound), green bean almondine ($8.99/pound) and autum puree ($8.99/pound).
Chocolate in multiple forms, ready for gift giving, or as pistoles for baking.
A selection of wines for the table or for gift giving. Among the top 10 holiday offerings available for sampling were La Piuma Pecorino, Ferrari Carano fumé blanc, HRM Rex-Goliath pinot noir, and Maggio Family Vineyards petite sirah.
Clean up with Filthy Farmgirl soaps, available in holiday scents and packaging, and note the most important ingredient at far right, "No yucky stuff!"
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